Is anyone parting out a machine that would have a transmission to fit the 6700? It has the Daikin BDV-10S-5455. A used one or a parted out one might work. There is a bearing and some pump tubes that I need.
Does anyone know if hydros from any other Yamaha models are interchangeable? Is anyone parting out a machine? I'm beginning to think I might have to somehow install a JD drivetrain or make a manual setup with pullys and belts. I've been running into blank walls looking for a transmission or parts, it seems that Yamaha only made one YT6700 and I have it. My neighbor thinks we could make a fast go-kart with the engine and wheels
Finally found a Yamaha dealer in my area who knew that Yamaha even made a lawn tractor Most of the shops only deal in atv, cycles, shomobiles, outboards or musical instruments The dealer had a partial breakdown of the transmission area but the hydro unit itself is n/a If it was available the price at the time was $896. I went to a local bearing company and was able to order a bearing that would fit what I need and some spacer races to make up the difference in proportion required for a total cost of $37.00 After I put the unit back together I will post to let you know if these units can at least be repaired with some "field engieering" and post sime pictures of the process.
Finished cleaning up the hydro and installing new thrust plates and bearings for the pump side of the hydro. The swash plate race was pitted beyond repair so I installed a new thrust washer over the old groved race, added a new thrust bearing and polished down the original pump face plate. The faces of the pump cylinders were scored and pitted also so they also had to be polished to a mirror finish. Here are some pictures of the procedure. Lots more pictures if anyone is interested. These pics have been downsized for the net but I have 26 pictures of the entire build in very fine detail and closeups. The one picture is of a small fraction of the metal filings that were removed from the oil passages. The entire unit was flushed with lamp oil, cleaned with carb cleaner and blown out after soaking. The problem was caused by lack of maintenance of the hydrostatic unit and I would strongly suggest annual oil changes. Not an easy job but sure beats a rebuild.
Great pics, Meofuse, thanks. Please send those on to me so I can get a better look. Good tip about the oil changes too...I'm going to try and change mine this weekend. Glad you got it back together again!!!
Hopefully the last post on the Yamaha hydro. Repaired and installed. Running great, like new. It took some effort the get the flow passages recharged. After installation it was necessary to pull the tracter backwards without the engine running and without the by-pass engaged. It went about 6 feet before resistance was felt and the wheels finally locked up. Same thing in forward. After starting there was some groaning while air purged the system. Back on the road again. I believe there is a way to drain and purge the hydro without complete teardown. There are three flow valves that can be removed on the bottom side of the unit with an allen wrench. If those valves, small springs and ball bearings, are carefully removed the old oil will drain out, albiet slowly but it will happen. Flush the unit with kerosene several time and refill with oil until it drains out of the valve openings and then replace the valves. Some effort required but less than looking for parts and field engineering new internals.
Now to the gunky carbs which make it hard to start.
I will begin a new thread on those, with pictures if anyone is interested.
After reading the posts I can see that I am in the presence of an expert / genius YT guru.
I registered a few hours ago as a new owner of YT6700 with a rotted mow deck and a "mush-box" transmission selector lever.
I love this machine after seeing the quality of the design and details and I want to make it work if possible.
If you look at the dates of those postings you can see they were a few years ago, didn't think anyone read them anymore Since I posted the transmission rebuild I never had to do another thing with it, still works strong like it was new I say that because I sorta forgot where I drained the oil on the transmission. I remember correctly follow the lever down, the one that is under the seat to disengage the transmission, that lever presses against a button. That button has a nut around it. Take off the nut and pull the button unit out. BE CAREFULL there is a spring and a small ball bearing in there, don't lose them.The old oil will drain out, I flushed it with kerosene/deisel fuel, blew it out with an airhose and then refilled with a straight 30 motor oil after reinstalling the button,spring,ball thing. To get the unit completely filled and oil in all the hydraulic passages fill from the top like you normally would and when the cup is full you have to push the tractor back and forth by hand with the button in the operating position, (down) push the tractor until you feel the wheels lock up. Start up and try it out, It takes a few shifting cycles to get all the air out of the passages but have patience. Just changing the oil in the transmission and putting in fresh stuff should get rid of that mushy feel